The Ring of Kerry

An early start to the day today, we set off to drive along the infamous Ring of Kerry.  Being a fan of scenic road trips, I had very much been looking forward to this day.  Even though grey clouds and dreary skies loomed overhead, my spirits were high and I was eager for a day of panoramic wonders.

Ring of Kerry Countryside

The first stop of the day was in Killarney where a few of us boarded a charming “pony and trap” for a leisurely jaunting car ride through Killarney National Park.  With our horse Charlie leading the way, and our driver’s failed attempt at humour violating what would have been blissful serenity, we drove through vivid green fields still adorned by yellow irises and purple rhododendrons.  I spotted deer frolicking through the forest and admired the tranquil lakes, which were dotted with canoes and fishing boats.

Pony & Trap Ride Through Killarney National Park

Lakes of Killarney - Killarney National Park

We hopped off our carriages for a stroll and look-around at Ross Castle and got to wander about the grounds and enjoy the quacking and waddling of the local ducks.  Hopping back on to the pony and trap, we completed our circular route back into town for a bit of time to visit the shops.

Ross Castle - Killarney National Park

The Ring of Kerry seemed unimpressive to me at first, as much of the scenery was similar to the countryside I had seen throughout the rest of Ireland.  Once we hit the coast, however, the views and rugged landscapes were spectacular.  The scenes reminded me very much of the Canadian Maritimes and I began to long for home.  Rolling hills swaddled the coastline, while grey seas lapped the rocky shores.  We all kept our eyes open for the abundant ancient fairy raths and stone circles, and while I was able to spot quite a few ringforts, sadly there were no fairies or leprechauns in sight.

Ring of Kerry Panorama & Fairy Ringfort

As we journeyed on, we stopped once again in the quaint seaside village of Waterville.  Colourful buildings hugged the shore while tour busses lined the streets back to back.  Hoards of tourists were already wandering through town when we arrived, so I avoided the crowds and took some time for a quiet stroll along the rocky beach, indulging in the rich salty scent that infused the air and the refreshing sea mist that sprayed amongst the rocks.  Once the tourists began to clear away, I darted towards the town for a quick photo with a bronze statue of Charlie Chaplin and then it was back on the bus once again to complete our drive.

Waterville, Ireland

While the overcast skies endured, we were at least spared from the cold rain.  The Macgillycuddy’s Reeks that were seen in the distance along the drive remained shrouded in a quintessential Irish mist and I could only imagine how beautiful the panoramas would be in full sunshine. Our drive for the day ended in Tralee, on the Dingle Peninsula, where we settled in for a quiet evening.

Misty Macgillycuddy's Reeks

Towering Cliffs, Prehistoric Landscapes, a Castle & a Folk Park

Finally, I awoke to a day of no rain.  While the clouds loomed angrily overhead, at least there was no water pouring down on me.  With an early start, we headed for a beautifully scenic drive to the imposing Cliffs of Moher, a place I had very much looked forward to visiting.  We drove through some spectacular countryside and magnificent coastline, passing charming farms, sandy beaches and ancient ruins to arrive at the rocky cliffs that towered above the shoreline.  Blustery winds blew me to and fro and at one point, they even stole my new tweed hat from me, which I was relieved to recover.  I raced my way up the hills, eager to capture the outstanding view from the top.  Even with the day being as grey and dreary as it was, the scene was spectacular.  I so wished I could have had more time there to really live into the moment.  I had no time at all to thoroughly enjoy the museum and shops, and so wished I could have just sat there at the top of the cliffs for hours on end.

Cliffs of Moher

We then drove on through the prehistoric landscapes of the Burren.  The ancient and rugged terrain was so intriguing with its brilliant emerald and smoky rocky fields.  It was amazing to see anything growing here at all.  Large boulders were scattered about as daisies and other wildflowers pushed themselves through the earth, dotting the landscapes with vibrant colours.

The Burren Boulder

Here, we stopped to visit the Poulnabrone Dolmen, an ancient Neolithic stone tomb and “hole of sorrows”, which dates back to as far as 4300 BC to 2900 BC.

Poulnabrone Dolmen

After pondering the ancient tomb, admiring the wildflowers, and jumping from rock to rock, I made my way back to the bus for our descent back down the jackknife turns of Corkscrew Hill, which our bus driver managed magnificently.  As the sun began to break through the clouds the scenes became even more impressive and I was so glad to have been able to visit this outstanding and unique area.

The Burren - Corscrew Hill

Later in the day, we stopped to visit the popular Bunratty Castle, Folk Park and Village for a step back in time. Bunratty Castle, which derives from the Irish, Caisleán Bhun Raithe, meaning “Castle at the Mouth of the Ratty”, is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland.  It was built in 1425 and later restored to its former glory and splendour in 1954.  The castle houses beautiful 15^th and 16^th century furnishings along with gorgeous tapestries and works of art reflective of the times, as well as stunning stained glass windows, and some of the most unique candelabras I’ve ever seen.   I so enjoyed roaming about the castle with our guide, circling my way up the narrow stone stairways, and imagining what life must have been like hundreds of years ago.

Bunratty Castle

Within the grounds of Bunratty Castle lies the 26 acre Bunratty Folk Park and Village where 19^th century life in Ireland comes alive.  This “living village” provides an excellent window into what life was like for many Irish families and exploring here is a relaxing and charming way to enjoy an afternoon.  With the day finally warming up and the sun coming out for a good stay, it was wonderful to stroll through the village, admiring the stone and thatched roof cottages, the old church and farmstead, the adorable sheep and farm animals, as well as the beautiful gardens and woodland trail.  Even the wind had died down and the day was one of the most pleasant we had had in over a week.

Bunratty Folk Park & Village Pink House

Bunratty Folk Park & Village Pink Room

Bunratty Folk Park & Village Church

Bunratty Folk Park & Village Farmhouse

Bunratty Folk Park & Village Gardens

Bunratty Folk Park & Village Woodland Trail

I made a quick run through of the nearby gift shop just before ending our day and then we headed to our hotel for the evening.  It was certainly a full day, but I would have happily stayed longer in each of the places I visited as I enjoyed each one of them in their own unique way.

Connemara Country

Greeted by a thick fog and rain this morning, we left Sligo behind to drive out to the Connemara countryside of Ireland. Our first stop was in a pretty little town called Westport where we had time for a short stroll.  Popping in and out of a few shops I met some very friendly locals and took part in some lively Irish craic that helped brighten up the dreary morning.  They were all so eager to chat and get to know me that it made for such a pleasant visit.

We then rolled on, the fog ever present, into more rugged territory.  We passed field upon field of peat bogs to finally arrive at Kylemore Abbey, which stood out majestically amongst the green and rocky hills that enveloped it.  With the rain pouring down on me relentlessly, I was determined to take a few photos of the gorgeous abbey and then finally made my way into the overpriced gift shop for a bit of warmth and to shake off the rain.  I could only imagine how stunning the abbey would have looked on a sunny day in autumn, as it was quite a striking view.

Kylemore Abbey

Carrying on into Connemara, I was taken by the stunning landscapes that were somewhat reminiscent of the highlands of Scotland, the rugged hills almost disappearing in the thick mist.  We stopped at a tiny Connemara marble factory to learn more about this gorgeous green stone and had time to browse the gift shop, which was rather unimpressive.  While it would have been a perfect opportunity to pick up a souvenir here, the selection was rather scarce and plain, not to mention overpriced.  Across the street, there was a very interesting building open to the public that housed a huge dining room and a great room with walls bedecked in an array of picture frames and various items.  I immediately made my way to the fire that was burning some richly fragrant peat moss and indulged in the delicious warmth.

Connemara Marble

Connemara House

Moving on to Galway we found ourselves trapped in rush hour traffic so we remained stalled for a short while before being dropped off in the centre of town.  With a heavy rain still falling down on me, I made my way to the famous Thomas Dillon’s Claddagh Gold shop, the oldest jewellers in Ireland and the original makers of the Claddagh ring.  I was surprised by how tiny the shop was, but it did have a beautiful selection of jewellery.  As I already had my own Claddagh ring, I merely admired the items they had on display.  I then made my way down the main cobblestone avenue to visit a few other shops and enjoy a bit of a respite from the rain.  The vibrant storefronts added a wonderful dash of colour to a rather grey day.  Entering another jewellery shop I picked up a cute little Irish clover ring made with Connemara marble for a bit of luck and chatted with a few other tourists who were out strolling about.  Even on a rainy day such as this, the streets were bustling and everyone seemed to be in good spirits despite the weather.

Galway

Arriving in Limerick early in the evening, I was a bit relieved to get out of the cold and rain and settle in for the evening.  After tending to some laundry and enjoying a late dinner with the group I was all tuckered and fell fast asleep, dreaming of the day to come.

Tweed Treasures & Pottery Pleasures

With a brisk wind to help us on our way this morning, we left Sligo behind and headed further north to Donegal County, Ireland.  Driving along the coast, I was transfixed as I watched the turbulent ocean crashing against the shore. Neptune was certainly in a fury today.  Grey clouds covered the skies and a thick mist drenched the air.  It was definitely going to be another wet one.

Irish Coast - Atlantic Ocean

Along the way, we drove through the picturesque seaside resort town of Bundoran, but with the weather as it was, it certainly did not look like a pleasant place for a holiday.  I’m sure it would have been lovely, however, had the day been much more bright and cheerful.  Carrying on, we arrived in Donegal.  Shining like a beacon of tweed, for which the town is renowned for, the day began to suddenly appear much more brilliant.  We were dropped off directly in front of Magee of Donegal, and I felt my blood begin to rush immediately.  My excitement was definitely palpable to all.

Magee - Donegal, Ireland

Those who know me, know that I am somewhat obsessed with tweed.  I’m not sure if it’s because I was a little old Scottish or Irish man in a past life, always bedecked in tweed finery, or if it’s just my passion for quality fabrics and excellent traditional craftsmanship, but I just can’t get enough of tweed.  I knew this holiday through Scotland and Ireland would refuel this obsession and hopefully reward it as well.  So, when we were dropped off at one of Ireland’s most famous tweed manufacturers, I couldn’t help but be thrilled.  Resisting the urge to dart straight into the shop, I went around back to watch a brief demonstration on the loom.  Some members of the group tried their hand at weaving (rather unsuccessfully), and after a few good laughs at their attempts, I could resist my urges no more and ran gleefully into the shop.   After browsing through the uninteresting ladies’ and men’s fashions on the lower floor, I finally found the “stairway to heaven”.  Beckoning me with a beautiful tapestry of tweed fabrics, I climbed the stairs to the upper level where the tweed treasures were hidden.  There were jackets, coats, blazers, vests, skirts, scarves, handbags, and hats in a glorious array of colours and textures.  Sumptuously wrapped around a mannequin I spotted my first gem, a gorgeous tweed scarf in my favourite shades of greens and rusts and browns.  Having at first defiled the mannequin by stealing its scarf, I later found another one neatly folded on a table so graciously wrapped up the mannequin once more and continued exploring.  I tried on a gorgeous coat, which was on sale, but sadly the fit was all wrong, too wide in the body and too short in the sleeves.  I was sorely disappointed.  I tried on a few more hats but all were unsurprisingly too large for my head, and then fumbled through their collection of coin purses and handbags.  I happily left the shop with my beautiful scarf and then began to check out the rest of the town.

Magee Loom

Magee Tweed Tapestry

Donegal has some wonderful craft shops and stores so it’s easy to fill a few hours here.  Sadly, we only had one, so I tried to take in as much as possible.  Entertaining the thought of picking up a bodhrán, which I’ve always wanted, I walked into a tiny music shop and struck up a pleasant conversation with the shopkeeper.  Sadly he did not have a very large selection of drums so, after our brief chat, I carried on to explore the town further. I checked out more of the craft shops in town and then walked over to Donegal Castle for a few photos.  During this time I kept thinking back to the coin purse I had left behind at Magee’s. It was already beginning to haunt me.  So, with only 5 minutes left to spare to get back to the bus, I rushed back into the shop and joyfully made another purchase.  Running back to the bus with glee and a permanently affixed smile, I was more than content with this morning’s visit.

Donegal Castle

Our next stop of the day was in Belleek, where we visited the factory and showroom of Belleek Pottery.  We enjoyed a wonderful tour of the facilities and were able to watch some of the craftspeople at work.  We were all a bit stunned (and entertained), when the tour guide mistakenly picked up an unfinished piece while standing next to a craftsman and his work and accidentally broke his beautiful work of art.  He seemed rather unfazed at the loss, but she was completely horrified, repeating over and over how she had never done such a thing before.  Trying to recover from her embarrassment and the deep shade of red in her face, she apprehensively carried on with the tour. It was fascinating to see the artists at work at the painstaking details that went into the pottery, which was really quite beautiful.  My favourite pieces were the basket weave items, which were extremely expensive.  Suffice it to say, I picked up no souvenirs at this place.

Belleek Pottery

Artists at Work - Belleek Pottery

Artist at Work - Belleek Pottery

Artist at Work - Basket Weave - Belleek Pottery

Artist at Work - Floral Detailing - Belleek Pottery

For our last stop, we crossed over into Northern Ireland to visit Eniskillen.  By now I was all tuckered out from all the excitement earlier in the day so I simply idled about the streets, having fun photographing the green mailboxes and phone booths.

Irish Mail Box

Irish Phone Booth

We returned to Sligo for the evening driving through more glorious Irish countryside.  As we drove passed the Ben Bulben Mountain, I admired the beautiful waterfalls that draped the rock face and the lush green grass that carpeted the fields.  Sheep farms were scattered as far as the eye could see and I spotted many lovely homes along the way.  We finally had a few patches of sunshine here and there, but even though it was overcast for the greater part of the day, I was still glowing from a fun day of tweed treasures and pottery pleasures.

Ben Bulben Mountain

Yawning in Yeats Country, Ireland

Another dreary start to the day with more rain and cloud as we left Dublin to begin a rather unexciting morning.  Shortly after leaving Dublin, we made a “coffee stop” in Mullingar, a town in which there was absolutely nothing to do.  As it was so early when we stopped here, nothing was open.  Having to waste 45 minutes here, I walked around in the mist to at least stretch my legs and tried to make the most of it by peering through shop windows and meandering through the streets.  We then made another stop just an hour later in a town whose name I don’t recall (because it was just as unexciting).  A few people opted to take an extremely overpriced boat cruise on the Shannon River while over half the group passed.  I was in the latter group and was thus forced to spend another hour wandering about aimlessly in the rain.

The day began to clear up a bit as we headed further west to Sligo – Yeats Country.    This was to be the highlight of the day.  We stopped to visit St Columba’s Church and Drumcliffe Cemetery, the final resting place of William B. Yeats, one of my favourite poets.

W.B.Yeats' Grave - Drumcliffe, Ireland

Yeats Memorial - Drumcliffe, Ireland

I walked around the grounds, inspecting the other graves while admiring the ancient High Cross in the cemetery and then wandered over to the humble church with its beautiful stained glass.  It was such a serene place.  I finally made it over to the gift shop just before it was time to leave and struggled for a while trying to decide whether to pick up a book of poetry or not.  As I knew my luggage was already going to be a wee bit too heavy for my flight to Madrid later on, I opted to sadly leave Yeats behind.  I shall have to hold him in my heart for now and add a few more books to my ever-growing wish list.

High Cross - Drumcliffe, Cemetery

Round Tower - Drumcliffe, Cemetery

We then drove along the mouth of the river to admire the beauty of the Shannon Valley.  In the distance we could spot the ancient hilltop cairn grave of Knocknarea, Meascán Méabha, believed to be the burial place of the fairy Queen Meabh (aka Queen Maeve or Queen Mab as she is known to Shakespeare).  I snapped as many photos as I could as we drove passed, hoping I would at least get a couple of decent ones.

Knocknarea - Fairy Queen Meabh's Grave

At the river’s edge, we got off the bus for a quick photo opportunity.  The sun was trying to break its way through the clouds so it was a bit brighter by now and made for quite a lovely view.

Shannon River Valley, Ireland

Our final stop was in Sligo where I spent the afternoon roaming the town.  I stopped into the Tesco to pick up some snacks, checked out a few shops, and took a few photos as I explored the sights.  Suddenly the heavy rains began once again. Luckily, I was able to make it back to the hotel in time so I was not fully drenched.

Sligo, Ireland

Sligo, Ireland

Sadly, the weather was definitely not on my side today which made the day much more lacklustre.  What I found interesting along our drive though, was the mishmash of rural houses that dotted the landscapes.  There were some gorgeous new houses that were built right next to simple country cottages and dilapidated farmhouses as well as old ruins.  Many of the new houses seemed half finished or lay empty, a result of a devastating economic crisis.  It looked as if people had just up and left, leaving everything behind, which was really quite sad as some of these homes were truly spectacular.  The rains made me feel as if Ireland was crying for her people which left me with a bit of a heavy heart by the end of the day.  I fell asleep to the sounds of more rain, hoping a much more cheerful day would follow.

A Day in Dublin

After getting stuck in traffic on the bus the night before, I was very eager to see Dublin this morning.  Lo and behold a glorious sun had finally come out to join us.  While the air was still a bit crisp and brisk, the sunshine was wonderful.  We started the day with a more formal city tour by bus, driving by the major monuments, government buildings, famous statues, and notable sites with a bit of a commentary on Dublin’s history.  We were told that the recession had hit the city hard, that many businesses had had to close, and that many Dubliners had immigrated to other countries, which was obvious as many storefronts were shut down and quite a few homes were boarded up.  The guide also stated that 1/3 of the population was under the age of 30, which was also obvious as the streets were full of youth.  I thought it gave the city a lively feel and one of hope.

Charles Parnell Statue - Dublin

Daniel O'Connell Statue - Dublin

After the bus tour, a few of us took the option to head to Wicklow to visit Glendalough, an old monastery and cemetery not too far from the city.  The drive up was spectacular.  We drove through some very pretty suburban areas with beautiful homes and on to some of the most beautiful countryside I’d ever seen.

Wicklow Mountains in Irish Countryside

When we arrived at Glendalough, I felt an immediate sense of peace and tranquillity wash over me.  Old graves with the notable Celtic cross were scattered throughout the grounds and majestic lush trees enveloped the area. We strolled around with a local guide who shared some of the history of the monastery and then we all had a chance to wander about the site independently.  I walked around quietly and respectfully so as to not disturb those in eternal rest, inspecting many of the tombstones that each told their own story.  The intricately carved markers were beautiful works of art and a great tribute to cherished loved ones.  After my time ambling through the cemetery, I wandered over to the market stalls to see if there were any interesting souvenirs. I wasn’t expecting much so I was astounded and elated that lying on a table under a few caps and scarves was a gorgeous Irish tweed hat in the exact colours I was looking for!  Best of all, it fit my tiny head perfectly and was extremely affordable too!  I couldn’t have been happier.  My day was already made.  I immediately donned my new hat, which made the chilly day much more bearable, and went about my merry way, a smile permanently affixed to my face.

The Round Tower at Glendalough Monastery

Glendalough Cemetery

Celtic Cross Gravestone - Glendalough

After our tour of Glendalough, we were dropped back off in the centre of Dublin, right near Trinity College, to explore the city at our leisure.  I took to the streets with great fervour in order to take in as many sites as I could, while continuing my hunt for more tweed and some great Irish treasures.  In one of the first shops I entered, I found another gorgeous woollen scarf that matched my hat perfectly.  This was turning out to be a great day indeed!  I walked along Grafton Street, popping in and out of several shops and enjoying the buskers and live entertainment, wandered through Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, a very attractive shopping mall, and entered a bunch of shops in the city, picking up some other typical Irish souvenirs.  The streets were absolutely buzzing with activity and energy, but being such a beautiful sunny day, I didn’t mind the crowds at all.  Nothing was getting me down today.  I admired the old historical buildings, the attractive Georgian homes and the interesting architecture, took lots of photos, and just soaked up the great vibe of the city.

Grafton Street, Dublin

After thoroughly enjoying Dublin, having walked many km, I returned to the hotel with sore feet, but it was all worth it.  The day was a great mix of rural and urban delights and I’d definitely revisit Dublin in the future to check out some of the other things I missed.

Wet Wales, Tudor Chester & Standstill Dublin

Another rainy and wet day today as we crossed into Wales, as famous for their beautiful landscapes as they are for their ridiculously long words and interesting local tongue.  Our first stop was in the town of Llangollen, which lies in the picturesque Dee Valley, nestled in the north east of the country.  The town, renowned for its annual music festival, the International Eisteddfod, is a charming place to stroll around and enjoy the natural scenery.  From atop the ancient bridge that crosses over the River Dee, you can enjoy a wonderful panoramic view of the town, the old train station, and on to the lush green hills in the distance.

Llangollen, Wales

As I walked around the town, I spotted the iconic and striking Red Dragon, or the Y Ddraig Goch as it is known in Welsh, everywhere – on signs, on walls, above doors, near windows; it was clearly guarding the homes and businesses of the people.  Being a Sunday, not much in the town was open and it was very quiet.  In the main city parking lot, many visitors and locals alike were gearing up and preparing for hiking and cycling treks in the nearby mountains.  I so wished I could have joined them in the great outdoors to discover the country’s natural wonders.

Welsh Red Dragon - Y Ddraig Goch

Shop in Llangollen

After our brief visit in Llangollen, we drove along the impressive Horseshoe Pass, the Bwlch yr Oernant as it is known in Welsh, meaning the “Pass of the Cold Stream”.  Here, we stopped and got off the bus for a fantastic panoramic view of the area. This scenic route, which climbs up from Llangollen, is shaped like a horseshoe (hence the name), and offers some of the most spectacular views in Wales.  Along the drive, we passed the slate quarry on the Llantysilio Mountains near Oernant, which stood out amongst the surrounding green hills.  At the top of the dramatic pass lies the Ponderosa Café, a good place to stop, rest, and have a bite to eat, or set out for a hike to stretch your legs on one of the Offa’s Dyke paths.

Horseshoe Pass

Later in the day, we crossed back in to England to visit the beautiful town of Chester with its magnificent Tudor style buildings, which I have always been a fan of.  I’ve always said if I could build my dream mansion, it would definitely be in Tudor styling. The distinctive black and white half-timbered buildings, the steeply pitched roofs, the striking cross gables, the decorative arches, and the stunning small paned leaded windows all flashed before me with delight.  I was in Tudor heaven!  Even the slight drizzle and haze didn’t bother me while I explored the town and its amazing shops. As I walked through the arcaded rows and snaked my way through the many cobblestone alleys and walkways, I was captivated by the beauty of this town.  Much of the restoration here is remarkable with new buildings closely resembling those hundreds of years older. Chester’s High Street was a bustling centre of action with tourists and locals strolling about while street musicians and performers enhanced the artistic appeal of the town.  It really was a great place to spend the day and I wished I’d had more time to discover more of what Chester had to offer, especially since we returned back at the hotel early in the afternoon with absolutely nothing to do in the area.

Tudor Architecture in Chester

Chester High Street

The next day we crossed back over to Wales once again and were greeted with ferociously wet and windy weather.  We began the day by visiting the castle town of Caernarfon.  As soon as I exited the bus, I began battling the elements as the gale force winds thrust me hither and thither and the rain attacked me from all angles.  Popping into shops for some brief moments of warmth and shelter, I finally made it to Caernarfon Castle.  Hovered under awnings and tucked into doorways, I did my best to photograph the dominating fortress.  Returning to the bus soaked and dishevelled like a rag doll, I was actually relieved our stop here was only a brief 40 minutes as it was nearly impossible to get around reasonably in that kind of weather.  The other poor souls who struggled futilely back to the bus with their shredded umbrellas at least provided me with some amusement, even if it was at their unfortunate expense.  I’m still baffled by their sorry attempts at shielding themselves from those elements.  What were they thinking?

Caernarfon Castle

With the rain and wind following us, we moved on to the Isle of Anglesey, which lies off the north west coast of Wales.  Now renowned as the home of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, Prince William and his new bride Catherine, the island is quite charming and picturesque and a great place to catch the ferry on to Ireland.  Soon after crossing onto the island, we stopped in the town of Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch (I did warn you about those long Welsh words), more commonly known as Llanfairpwll or Llanfair PG.  The town’s name, which is the longest officially recognized place name in the UK as well as one of the longest in the world, means, in one breath now: St Mary’s Church (Llanfair) in the hollow (pwll) of the white hazel (gwyngyll) near (goger) the rapid whirlpool (y chwyrndrobwll) and the church of St Tysilio (llantysilio) by the red cave ([a]g ogo goch). Phew!  Now there’s a mouthful.  Our stop here was basically a lunch break, so all I had time to do was enter the main shop and cue in a seemingly endless line for a hot bowl of soup.

Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, Isle of Anglesey

The remainder of the day was spent on the ferry as we cruised on over to Dublin, Ireland.  Battling gale force winds once again, the ride was surprisingly not as rough as I’d expect in that type of weather, but we did arrive much later than expected.

On the Ferry to Ireland - Irish Sea

It’s a good thing we weren’t in a hurry as when we finally arrived in Dublin, we got stuck in traffic and had to circle around the city for over 2 hours.  Roads had been blocked due to US President Obama’s visit and so we had to wait for the main road to reopen so we could make our way to the hotel.  It was certainly a test of our patience, but everyone remained in good spirits, singing, joking, and laughing, including our driver who seemed unfazed by the frustration this type of traffic jam would normally cause.  On the upside, the slow driving speed allowed us to take some photos from the bus on this impromptu city tour.  After finally arriving at our hotel late in the evening, a few of us crossed the street to the nearby restaurant for a late dinner and a nice pint of Guinness.  Then it was off to bed for a good night’s sleep in preparation for another day of discovery.

Dublin, Ireland

Lovers & Lakes ~ Gretna Green & The Lake District

Up bright and early once again, we began the day with a quick bus tour of Glasgow.  Being so early, however, the city was like a ghost town. I’m not sure if it was the early morning desolation or the fact that the city isn’t really that attractive, but I was rather unimpressed. In all fairness though, since I wasn’t able to explore the city at all, I can’t really give it a fair judgement.  Might have to go on my “rerun list” so I can give it another go.

Driving off into the countryside, I was taken by Scotland’s beauty once more.  Because spring had come to the country so late, the hills were still covered in a carpet of bluebells.  The contrast was striking and made the grey cloud cover much more bearable.

Bluebells of Scotland

Our first stop of the day was the famous village of Gretna Green, renowned as the location for “runaway weddings”.  Back in the mid 18^th Century, a law was passed in England that stated anyone under the age of 21 needed parental consent to marry.  In neighbouring Scotland, however, the age of consent for boys was 14 and for girls it was as young as 12.  For this reason, many young lovers fled England to elope and upon reaching the first village in Scotland, they quickly married.  The first village encountered was Gretna Green where the local blacksmith shop and its “anvil priests”, as they became known, witnessed and conducted countless marriages.  The blacksmith shop now remains one of the major attractions of the village and many weddings still take place in this questionably romantic destination.

Old Blacksmith's Shop - Gretna Green

The village, being such a tourist draw, now is cursed with that tacky tourist look and feel.  Coach busses pull in here constantly, while visitors pose for photos and snap pictures at every turn.  To give it some credit though, there are some wonderful art pieces and very interesting sculptures in the courtyard area. A collection of old tools and machines also lines the pathway through the main shopping area and on to the courtyard, which I very much enjoyed admiring and photographing.  The shopping in the area is quite good for picking up some traditional and local souvenirs. There is a fabulous food market where you can pick up some yummy local treats and not just one, but two large Locharron of Scotland stores.  And while I was tempted to pick up yet another scarf and blanket, I resisted the urge and to my surprise bought absolutely nothing.  They did have some wonderful things in store though, including your typical Scottish souvenirs, gorgeous wool, tweed, and cashmere blankets and throws, a nice selection of cashmere sweaters scarves and gloves, tartan clothing and kilts, charming throw pillows, and the cutest tweed teddy bears and stuffed terriers.  They also created a special “Memorial Diana Tartan” and offer scarves, hats, purses and bags in two plaid colour combinations.  I found the shop a bit more pricey than others, but they did carry quality goods.

Gretna Green Lovers

Gretna Green Hands

Leaving Scotland behind, we crossed the border back into England and headed for the Lake District.  Our first stop in the area was the charming village of Grasmere, home to Dove Cottage and the final resting place of poet William Wordsworth, who described the area as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”.  And lovely it was indeed. Even though the cloud and rain were with us once again, the Lake District remained simply stunning.  I kept wondering how even more beautiful the area would have been with the sun shining over head casting a dreamy shimmer on the lakes below.  I’m sure it would have been quite magical.  I enjoyed strolling the town, admiring the old stone houses and buildings while munching away on my peppermint candy, a popular village treat.  I also approached the famous gingerbread shop, another local delicacy, but the line was much too long to wait in.

Grasmere

Wordsworth's Grave - Grasmere

Moving on to another town in the Lake District we arrived in Windermere, home to the largest lake in the Lake District and home to the famous Peter Rabbit.  Here, the town was buzzing with activity.  Quaint shops and boutiques lined the streets and the charming characters from Beatrix Potter’s stories were scattered everywhere – on signs, in shops, and even on the walls.  It was very cute, or particularly annoying depending on if you are a fan of Beatrix Potter stories or not.

Beatrix Potter Characters - Windermere

After strolling through the town, I made by way to the lake’s edge to watch this brave little old woman feeding the swans and geese.  Ducks swooped down over top of her while the swans were taking the bread right out of her hands.  She didn’t even flinch.  Nor did she lose any fingers.  They must have all known her very well.

Woman Feeding Swans near Lake WIndermere

Lined up along the dock were the most charming and attractive wooden rowboats I’ve ever seen, which you can rent for a romantic and relaxing trip on the lake.  From here, we boarded a larger boat for our own leisurely cruise on Lake Windermere.  Sailboats were drifting idly along as we passed grand hotels and some spectacular lake front homes.  Of course, the rain was now pouring down on us by this point, but tucked safely under an awning, I remained on deck to breathe in the sweet lake air and feel the fresh mist on my face.  If only the sun were out as well; the day would have been sublime.

Lake Windermere Rowboats

After our boat trip, we boarded an old steam train for a short ride to Haverthwaite. It wasn’t the most thrilling train ride, and there really wasn’t much to see along the way, but it’s a popular thing to experience when in the Lake District so I thought I’d partake and am not sorry I did either as it was a relaxing trip nonetheless.

Steam Train

Leaving the Lake District behind, we made our way to Runcorn for the evening so that we could visit Wales and nearby Chester the next day.  I still have no idea why we were put up in Runcorn, other than it was cheaper than Chester, as there isn’t much to do here.  The hotel we stayed at did, however, provide one of the best dinners I’d had all trip, so that was a plus. So, with nothing to do in the area, I ended the evening with a leisurely stroll around the hotel’s pond and then went for a steam and sauna before drifting off to dreamland.

Scottish Lochs & Bens

I woke up to a fresh and crisp morning, eager for our long drive today through the highlands of Scotland.  As I looked out the window admiring the stunning landscapes, I couldn’t help but notice how rugged and striking the geography was with rocky hills, dense forests, and boggy fields.  There was definitely a strong masculine energy present here.  However, shimmering lochs, rushing rivers and gentle streams abounded, and cascading over the rocky hills were hundreds of beautiful, glistening waterfalls, balancing the rugged terrain with a nurturing feminine presence.  It was truly nature at its best – a perfect harmony.

Scottish Highlands & Loch

Rugged Hills & Waterfalls of the Scottish Highlands

Our first stop was at the nearby Aviemore Ring Cairn and Stone Circle.  I found it funny how an ancient stone circle built 4000 years ago was now sitting in the middle of a subdivision.  I wondered what the people who were buried here in this sacred gathering place thousands of years ago thought about their new neighbours; a strange mix of old and new worlds, no doubt.

Aviemore Ring Cairn & Stone Circle

We then stopped at the most famous Scottish loch, Loch Ness, but try as I may, I sadly did not spot Nessie. There was no sign of the infamous “Loch Ness Monster” anywhere in that glistening loch.  There was, however, a cute and colourful mural of her painted on the walls of a little tunnel on the way to the loch.  Up near the gift shop, you could see a sculpture of her basking in the sunshine, a popular photo op for all, and there were plenty of Nessie dolls in the gift shop, so I picked up a little one that now rests happily on my dashboard.  She shall remain elusive no more!

Loch Ness Monster Mural

Loch Ness

Next, we stopped at Eilean Donan Castle, considered one of the most iconic and most photographed images in all of Scotland.  The castle rests on a tiny island where three grand sea lochs meet and is enveloped by some of the most spectacular scenery I’ve ever seen.  Arriving there in sunshine, the weather quickly changed to grey skies, mist and rain.  When it was time to go, the clouds began to clear, once again revealing blue skies and sunshine; a typical temperamental and mercurial Scottish day.

Eilean Donan Castle

Later in the day, we crossed the bridge onto the Isle of Sky, the largest and most northerly island of the Inner Hebrides, an archipelago off the west coast of Scotland.  Once on the island we went for a wee drive.  Homes were scattered about the barren landscape along with many quaint B & Bs. Actually, it seemed every second house was a B &B. It was not at all how I had pictured it in my mind.  With the grey cover overhead and a wild mist and rain spraying from all directions, the rust-coloured countryside seemed rather dreary and bleak.  After our visit here, we were on our way back to the hotel for the evening.

Isle of Skye

The next morning, I awoke to something quite unexpected – snow.  WTF?  It was almost June, how could it be snowing?!  While the Aussies, who made up 90% of the group, were ecstatic to see the big fluffy flakes since most of them had never seen snow before, I was a bit, well, disappointed. After all, I’m from Canada, I’ve seen enough snow.  I didn’t want to see it in May and would have much preferred a warm spring for my holiday.  After driving through the countryside, though, even I had to admit, the snow cast a magical scene.  Passing the snow-capped mountains reflected in the sparkling waters, I felt very nostalgic.  We paused for a moment to stretch our legs, breathe in the fresh air and gaze out at the majestic and now icing-topped mountains.

Snow Capped Mountains of the Scottish Highlands

Then, with “The Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond” playing on the bus in preparation for our visit later in the day, we travelled on to Fort William, the largest town in the Scottish Highlands.  By now, the snow had turned to drizzling rain.  Unfazed by the ever-changing elements, I set out along the cobblestone roads, braving the rain, to explore the High Street and its shops.   My quest to find a tweed cap and handbag continued, but I was sadly unsuccessful.  To cheer me up from my dismay of still not finding the items I sought, I purchased a warm woollen tartan blanket with the clan colours of “Autumn Buchanan” to remind me of my favourite season.  I am very much looking forward to snuggling up in it later this year and wrapping myself up in that rich sheep smell that wool gives off and that I love so much.  Mmmm. Lost in a haze of beautiful woolly things, I realized it was time to get back on the bus so rushed out of the shop, running merrily down the street, bag in hand, forgetting all about my sorrow at not finding the aforementioned tweed treasures.  Of course, now that we were all back on the bus, the rain stopped.

Ben Nevis Mountain Range

Journeying on, I continued to be dazzled by the breathtaking scenery.  Then, as if out of a fairy tale, we came upon a rest stop that had magical views of the snow-capped mountains and enchanting waterfalls, complete with a Scotsman in his full tartan garb playing a haunting tune on his bagpipes.  It was all like a dream and remains my most vivid image of Scotland.  I so wanted to join the hikers who were beginning their trek into the mountains to fully immerse myself in this wonderland, but sadly had to get back on board the bus with the others.

Ben Nevis with Scottish Bagpiper

Bidding our farewells to Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in the British Isles, we continued on to Loch Lomond where we were greeted by Ben Lomond, another distinctive mountain in the Scottish Highlands.  Here, on the shores of Loch Lomond, we boarded a boat for a relaxing cruise.  We passed luxurious hotels, gorgeous lakefront cottages, and we even spotted the infamous Rob Roy’s cave.  (And for those people who couldn’t guess it was a cave, the word “cave” has been painted on a rock just outside the entrance so you don’t miss it.)  Finally after another long day, we made our way to Glasgow for the evening.

Rob Roy's Cave

 

Celebrating my Birthday in St Andrews & the Scottish Highlands

Today I woke up not only a day older, but a year older too.  (N.B. Notes for this post were originally written on May 18, my actual birth date, so please hold your birthday blessings until next year or by all means, send belated ones if you feel so inclined. ;) )  I have to admit, it was kind of great waking up on my birthday in a castle.  It’s not every day one gets to experience that.  Of course, I celebrated with another full Scottish breakfast, complete with another large heaping mound of haggis on my dish.  (Note to self – must learn how to make haggis, preferably from a little old Scottish lady I can barely understand.)

Me & The North Sea in St Andrews

Bidding my farewells to Melville, I boarded the bus for another long drive to the highlands of Scotland.  Comfortably seated next to my “bus buddy”, who gave me first pick in sitting by the window or aisle since it was my “special day”, we were on our way for our first stop in St Andrews, renowned for being “the home of golf”, and the home of the university where Prince William and his new bride Catherine once studied, met, and fell in love.  Upon arrival, I was surprised to see how quiet and charming the town really was.  While I wasn’t really expecting a wild and crazy uni party in the middle of the streets, I was expecting to see, well, a little more activity.  Perhaps it was because most of the students had completed the school year and were back home, or perhaps it was because the town only has a population of just under 17,000, but there were hardly any people out and about, giving the town a very peaceful and tranquil atmosphere, which I really quite enjoyed.  We parked the bus near the famous Old Course of St Andrews and I was once again surprised to see how small the golf course was.  Being the home of golf and the oldest golf course in the world, I had envisioned an enormous golf course, with rolling hills, miles of emerald fairway, sand pits, ponds, and all the other features one expects with a grand course, but it was actually quite modest and humble.  It did have an impressive view of the North Sea, however, and I wondered how many wayward golf balls were resting in its depths.

Old Course in St Andrews

After admiring the golf course and staring longingly out to sea, I began my exploration of the town.  I walked by some of the charming university buildings, passed St Andrews Castle, and visited the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral where I spent much time wandering about in the Cathedral Cemetery.  The Cathedral, originally built in the early 12^th century was ravaged by storms and a fire and was later reconstructed.  What remains now are the ruins of the rebuilt Cathedral dating back to the 14^th Century and the serene cemetery which offers glorious views of the sea – a perfect resting place indeed. As I examined the graves I noticed how old many of them were; some of the carvings on the headstones were completely illegible and barely visible after having weathered hundreds of years.  Quite a few of the headstones also had carved etchings of golfers and golf clubs, making it evident that this was clearly, and understandably, a passion of many of the inhabitants who were laid to rest here.

St Andrews Castle

Tommy’s Grave – Cathedral Cemetery

St Andrews Cathedral Cemetery

Graves at St Andrews Cathedral Cemetery

After my exploration of the cemetery, my “bus buddy” and I checked out the shops in town.  I walked by a very inviting cupcake shop and so stopped in to treat myself to a delicious marshmallow and chocolate cupcake.  Yum!  Happy Birthday to me!  Wiping the frosting off my face and hands, I continued to browse through the many wonderful boutiques and shops of St Andrews and picked up a stunning wool and cashmere scarf.  I also spotted a gorgeous tweed and tapestry handbag but left it behind, thinking I would find more of what I was looking for later on.  (I am now kicking myself I did not buy it.)  Looking at our watches, we noticed we were going to be late getting back to the bus, but directionally challenged as we both were, we began walking in the opposite direction.  We asked some of the workmen who were working on the roads how to get back, but ironically, they weren’t actually from St Andrews and had no idea where to lead us.  Luckily, I found the tourist information centre and with my trusty map now in hand, I was able to lead us back, once I got my bearings and figured out which way to walk in that is.   Once back on the bus and only 10 minutes late, we were greeted with applause and a bit of teasing.  I begged forgiveness, asking them to excuse the birthday girl’s tardiness, which they were more than happy to oblige and then they all broke out in song to sing me happy birthday.  It was very sweet.

Blair Castle – Blair Atholl

Continuing on, we made another stop in the town of Pitlochry. While some went off for an optional excursion to tour Blair Castle in nearby Blair Atholl, I opted to explore the town as the rain drizzled down on me.  I stopped at a shop for some fudge (my lunch) and checked out some of the shops, continuing my search for a tweed hat and a cozy wool sweater, but all the hats were too large for my mutant small head and I kept seeing the same sweater styles over and over again, which I wasn’t very fond of.  The town itself wasn’t very interesting either as it’s really only one main street, but I did happen upon the Heather Gems Factory and Showroom, which makes some very unique jewellery out of the heather that blankets the landscapes of the Scottish highlands.  After some time in town, those of us who stayed behind drove up to Blair Castle to meet the others.  Here, I was greeted by some regal peacocks that were strutting amusingly about the grounds.  One even enjoyed posing for me long enough to snap some photographs of him before he bored of me and strutted on.

Sir Peacock

Back on the bus, we commenced our journey to our final destination in Aviemore.  The drive was spectacular.  Simply gorgeous.  Sheep were scattered everywhere, rolling green fields stretched as far as the eye could see, and barley waved in the wind.  It was such a magical scene.  From our large picture windows I stared out to admire the River Tay, the longest river in Scotland, that was flowing along large pines and through dense forests.  The further north we drove, the more rugged the landscape became, with rocky terrain and hills carpeted in wild heather, lingering snow frosting their peaks.  The area reminded me of driving up to cottage country in northern Ontario and the geography of the Canadian Shield, and so it felt a bit like home.  Finally arriving at our hotel in Aviemore, we got off the bus and I was at once smacked in the face (in a good way) with clean and crisp mountain air and the fresh smell of pine.  Even the sun had finally come out to join us.  I felt momentarily invigorated after our long journey, but very much welcomed a bit of a lay down and a good dinner.  After freshening up, my roommate and I headed down for a birthday drink where I was treated to a throat soothing single malt scotch whisky before enjoying dinner.  Soon after, I was ready for a long and restful sleep.

River Tay