Lovers & Lakes ~ Gretna Green & The Lake District

Up bright and early once again, we began the day with a quick bus tour of Glasgow.  Being so early, however, the city was like a ghost town. I’m not sure if it was the early morning desolation or the fact that the city isn’t really that attractive, but I was rather unimpressed. In all fairness though, since I wasn’t able to explore the city at all, I can’t really give it a fair judgement.  Might have to go on my “rerun list” so I can give it another go.

Driving off into the countryside, I was taken by Scotland’s beauty once more.  Because spring had come to the country so late, the hills were still covered in a carpet of bluebells.  The contrast was striking and made the grey cloud cover much more bearable.

Bluebells of Scotland

Our first stop of the day was the famous village of Gretna Green, renowned as the location for “runaway weddings”.  Back in the mid 18^th Century, a law was passed in England that stated anyone under the age of 21 needed parental consent to marry.  In neighbouring Scotland, however, the age of consent for boys was 14 and for girls it was as young as 12.  For this reason, many young lovers fled England to elope and upon reaching the first village in Scotland, they quickly married.  The first village encountered was Gretna Green where the local blacksmith shop and its “anvil priests”, as they became known, witnessed and conducted countless marriages.  The blacksmith shop now remains one of the major attractions of the village and many weddings still take place in this questionably romantic destination.

Old Blacksmith's Shop - Gretna Green

The village, being such a tourist draw, now is cursed with that tacky tourist look and feel.  Coach busses pull in here constantly, while visitors pose for photos and snap pictures at every turn.  To give it some credit though, there are some wonderful art pieces and very interesting sculptures in the courtyard area. A collection of old tools and machines also lines the pathway through the main shopping area and on to the courtyard, which I very much enjoyed admiring and photographing.  The shopping in the area is quite good for picking up some traditional and local souvenirs. There is a fabulous food market where you can pick up some yummy local treats and not just one, but two large Locharron of Scotland stores.  And while I was tempted to pick up yet another scarf and blanket, I resisted the urge and to my surprise bought absolutely nothing.  They did have some wonderful things in store though, including your typical Scottish souvenirs, gorgeous wool, tweed, and cashmere blankets and throws, a nice selection of cashmere sweaters scarves and gloves, tartan clothing and kilts, charming throw pillows, and the cutest tweed teddy bears and stuffed terriers.  They also created a special “Memorial Diana Tartan” and offer scarves, hats, purses and bags in two plaid colour combinations.  I found the shop a bit more pricey than others, but they did carry quality goods.

Gretna Green Lovers

Gretna Green Hands

Leaving Scotland behind, we crossed the border back into England and headed for the Lake District.  Our first stop in the area was the charming village of Grasmere, home to Dove Cottage and the final resting place of poet William Wordsworth, who described the area as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”.  And lovely it was indeed. Even though the cloud and rain were with us once again, the Lake District remained simply stunning.  I kept wondering how even more beautiful the area would have been with the sun shining over head casting a dreamy shimmer on the lakes below.  I’m sure it would have been quite magical.  I enjoyed strolling the town, admiring the old stone houses and buildings while munching away on my peppermint candy, a popular village treat.  I also approached the famous gingerbread shop, another local delicacy, but the line was much too long to wait in.

Grasmere

Wordsworth's Grave - Grasmere

Moving on to another town in the Lake District we arrived in Windermere, home to the largest lake in the Lake District and home to the famous Peter Rabbit.  Here, the town was buzzing with activity.  Quaint shops and boutiques lined the streets and the charming characters from Beatrix Potter’s stories were scattered everywhere – on signs, in shops, and even on the walls.  It was very cute, or particularly annoying depending on if you are a fan of Beatrix Potter stories or not.

Beatrix Potter Characters - Windermere

After strolling through the town, I made by way to the lake’s edge to watch this brave little old woman feeding the swans and geese.  Ducks swooped down over top of her while the swans were taking the bread right out of her hands.  She didn’t even flinch.  Nor did she lose any fingers.  They must have all known her very well.

Woman Feeding Swans near Lake WIndermere

Lined up along the dock were the most charming and attractive wooden rowboats I’ve ever seen, which you can rent for a romantic and relaxing trip on the lake.  From here, we boarded a larger boat for our own leisurely cruise on Lake Windermere.  Sailboats were drifting idly along as we passed grand hotels and some spectacular lake front homes.  Of course, the rain was now pouring down on us by this point, but tucked safely under an awning, I remained on deck to breathe in the sweet lake air and feel the fresh mist on my face.  If only the sun were out as well; the day would have been sublime.

Lake Windermere Rowboats

After our boat trip, we boarded an old steam train for a short ride to Haverthwaite. It wasn’t the most thrilling train ride, and there really wasn’t much to see along the way, but it’s a popular thing to experience when in the Lake District so I thought I’d partake and am not sorry I did either as it was a relaxing trip nonetheless.

Steam Train

Leaving the Lake District behind, we made our way to Runcorn for the evening so that we could visit Wales and nearby Chester the next day.  I still have no idea why we were put up in Runcorn, other than it was cheaper than Chester, as there isn’t much to do here.  The hotel we stayed at did, however, provide one of the best dinners I’d had all trip, so that was a plus. So, with nothing to do in the area, I ended the evening with a leisurely stroll around the hotel’s pond and then went for a steam and sauna before drifting off to dreamland.

Scottish Lochs & Bens

I woke up to a fresh and crisp morning, eager for our long drive today through the highlands of Scotland.  As I looked out the window admiring the stunning landscapes, I couldn’t help but notice how rugged and striking the geography was with rocky hills, dense forests, and boggy fields.  There was definitely a strong masculine energy present here.  However, shimmering lochs, rushing rivers and gentle streams abounded, and cascading over the rocky hills were hundreds of beautiful, glistening waterfalls, balancing the rugged terrain with a nurturing feminine presence.  It was truly nature at its best – a perfect harmony.

Scottish Highlands & Loch

Rugged Hills & Waterfalls of the Scottish Highlands

Our first stop was at the nearby Aviemore Ring Cairn and Stone Circle.  I found it funny how an ancient stone circle built 4000 years ago was now sitting in the middle of a subdivision.  I wondered what the people who were buried here in this sacred gathering place thousands of years ago thought about their new neighbours; a strange mix of old and new worlds, no doubt.

Aviemore Ring Cairn & Stone Circle

We then stopped at the most famous Scottish loch, Loch Ness, but try as I may, I sadly did not spot Nessie. There was no sign of the infamous “Loch Ness Monster” anywhere in that glistening loch.  There was, however, a cute and colourful mural of her painted on the walls of a little tunnel on the way to the loch.  Up near the gift shop, you could see a sculpture of her basking in the sunshine, a popular photo op for all, and there were plenty of Nessie dolls in the gift shop, so I picked up a little one that now rests happily on my dashboard.  She shall remain elusive no more!

Loch Ness Monster Mural

Loch Ness

Next, we stopped at Eilean Donan Castle, considered one of the most iconic and most photographed images in all of Scotland.  The castle rests on a tiny island where three grand sea lochs meet and is enveloped by some of the most spectacular scenery I’ve ever seen.  Arriving there in sunshine, the weather quickly changed to grey skies, mist and rain.  When it was time to go, the clouds began to clear, once again revealing blue skies and sunshine; a typical temperamental and mercurial Scottish day.

Eilean Donan Castle

Later in the day, we crossed the bridge onto the Isle of Sky, the largest and most northerly island of the Inner Hebrides, an archipelago off the west coast of Scotland.  Once on the island we went for a wee drive.  Homes were scattered about the barren landscape along with many quaint B & Bs. Actually, it seemed every second house was a B &B. It was not at all how I had pictured it in my mind.  With the grey cover overhead and a wild mist and rain spraying from all directions, the rust-coloured countryside seemed rather dreary and bleak.  After our visit here, we were on our way back to the hotel for the evening.

Isle of Skye

The next morning, I awoke to something quite unexpected – snow.  WTF?  It was almost June, how could it be snowing?!  While the Aussies, who made up 90% of the group, were ecstatic to see the big fluffy flakes since most of them had never seen snow before, I was a bit, well, disappointed. After all, I’m from Canada, I’ve seen enough snow.  I didn’t want to see it in May and would have much preferred a warm spring for my holiday.  After driving through the countryside, though, even I had to admit, the snow cast a magical scene.  Passing the snow-capped mountains reflected in the sparkling waters, I felt very nostalgic.  We paused for a moment to stretch our legs, breathe in the fresh air and gaze out at the majestic and now icing-topped mountains.

Snow Capped Mountains of the Scottish Highlands

Then, with “The Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond” playing on the bus in preparation for our visit later in the day, we travelled on to Fort William, the largest town in the Scottish Highlands.  By now, the snow had turned to drizzling rain.  Unfazed by the ever-changing elements, I set out along the cobblestone roads, braving the rain, to explore the High Street and its shops.   My quest to find a tweed cap and handbag continued, but I was sadly unsuccessful.  To cheer me up from my dismay of still not finding the items I sought, I purchased a warm woollen tartan blanket with the clan colours of “Autumn Buchanan” to remind me of my favourite season.  I am very much looking forward to snuggling up in it later this year and wrapping myself up in that rich sheep smell that wool gives off and that I love so much.  Mmmm. Lost in a haze of beautiful woolly things, I realized it was time to get back on the bus so rushed out of the shop, running merrily down the street, bag in hand, forgetting all about my sorrow at not finding the aforementioned tweed treasures.  Of course, now that we were all back on the bus, the rain stopped.

Ben Nevis Mountain Range

Journeying on, I continued to be dazzled by the breathtaking scenery.  Then, as if out of a fairy tale, we came upon a rest stop that had magical views of the snow-capped mountains and enchanting waterfalls, complete with a Scotsman in his full tartan garb playing a haunting tune on his bagpipes.  It was all like a dream and remains my most vivid image of Scotland.  I so wanted to join the hikers who were beginning their trek into the mountains to fully immerse myself in this wonderland, but sadly had to get back on board the bus with the others.

Ben Nevis with Scottish Bagpiper

Bidding our farewells to Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in the British Isles, we continued on to Loch Lomond where we were greeted by Ben Lomond, another distinctive mountain in the Scottish Highlands.  Here, on the shores of Loch Lomond, we boarded a boat for a relaxing cruise.  We passed luxurious hotels, gorgeous lakefront cottages, and we even spotted the infamous Rob Roy’s cave.  (And for those people who couldn’t guess it was a cave, the word “cave” has been painted on a rock just outside the entrance so you don’t miss it.)  Finally after another long day, we made our way to Glasgow for the evening.

Rob Roy's Cave

 

Celebrating my Birthday in St Andrews & the Scottish Highlands

Today I woke up not only a day older, but a year older too.  (N.B. Notes for this post were originally written on May 18, my actual birth date, so please hold your birthday blessings until next year or by all means, send belated ones if you feel so inclined. ;) )  I have to admit, it was kind of great waking up on my birthday in a castle.  It’s not every day one gets to experience that.  Of course, I celebrated with another full Scottish breakfast, complete with another large heaping mound of haggis on my dish.  (Note to self – must learn how to make haggis, preferably from a little old Scottish lady I can barely understand.)

Me & The North Sea in St Andrews

Bidding my farewells to Melville, I boarded the bus for another long drive to the highlands of Scotland.  Comfortably seated next to my “bus buddy”, who gave me first pick in sitting by the window or aisle since it was my “special day”, we were on our way for our first stop in St Andrews, renowned for being “the home of golf”, and the home of the university where Prince William and his new bride Catherine once studied, met, and fell in love.  Upon arrival, I was surprised to see how quiet and charming the town really was.  While I wasn’t really expecting a wild and crazy uni party in the middle of the streets, I was expecting to see, well, a little more activity.  Perhaps it was because most of the students had completed the school year and were back home, or perhaps it was because the town only has a population of just under 17,000, but there were hardly any people out and about, giving the town a very peaceful and tranquil atmosphere, which I really quite enjoyed.  We parked the bus near the famous Old Course of St Andrews and I was once again surprised to see how small the golf course was.  Being the home of golf and the oldest golf course in the world, I had envisioned an enormous golf course, with rolling hills, miles of emerald fairway, sand pits, ponds, and all the other features one expects with a grand course, but it was actually quite modest and humble.  It did have an impressive view of the North Sea, however, and I wondered how many wayward golf balls were resting in its depths.

Old Course in St Andrews

After admiring the golf course and staring longingly out to sea, I began my exploration of the town.  I walked by some of the charming university buildings, passed St Andrews Castle, and visited the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral where I spent much time wandering about in the Cathedral Cemetery.  The Cathedral, originally built in the early 12^th century was ravaged by storms and a fire and was later reconstructed.  What remains now are the ruins of the rebuilt Cathedral dating back to the 14^th Century and the serene cemetery which offers glorious views of the sea – a perfect resting place indeed. As I examined the graves I noticed how old many of them were; some of the carvings on the headstones were completely illegible and barely visible after having weathered hundreds of years.  Quite a few of the headstones also had carved etchings of golfers and golf clubs, making it evident that this was clearly, and understandably, a passion of many of the inhabitants who were laid to rest here.

St Andrews Castle

Tommy’s Grave – Cathedral Cemetery

St Andrews Cathedral Cemetery

Graves at St Andrews Cathedral Cemetery

After my exploration of the cemetery, my “bus buddy” and I checked out the shops in town.  I walked by a very inviting cupcake shop and so stopped in to treat myself to a delicious marshmallow and chocolate cupcake.  Yum!  Happy Birthday to me!  Wiping the frosting off my face and hands, I continued to browse through the many wonderful boutiques and shops of St Andrews and picked up a stunning wool and cashmere scarf.  I also spotted a gorgeous tweed and tapestry handbag but left it behind, thinking I would find more of what I was looking for later on.  (I am now kicking myself I did not buy it.)  Looking at our watches, we noticed we were going to be late getting back to the bus, but directionally challenged as we both were, we began walking in the opposite direction.  We asked some of the workmen who were working on the roads how to get back, but ironically, they weren’t actually from St Andrews and had no idea where to lead us.  Luckily, I found the tourist information centre and with my trusty map now in hand, I was able to lead us back, once I got my bearings and figured out which way to walk in that is.   Once back on the bus and only 10 minutes late, we were greeted with applause and a bit of teasing.  I begged forgiveness, asking them to excuse the birthday girl’s tardiness, which they were more than happy to oblige and then they all broke out in song to sing me happy birthday.  It was very sweet.

Blair Castle – Blair Atholl

Continuing on, we made another stop in the town of Pitlochry. While some went off for an optional excursion to tour Blair Castle in nearby Blair Atholl, I opted to explore the town as the rain drizzled down on me.  I stopped at a shop for some fudge (my lunch) and checked out some of the shops, continuing my search for a tweed hat and a cozy wool sweater, but all the hats were too large for my mutant small head and I kept seeing the same sweater styles over and over again, which I wasn’t very fond of.  The town itself wasn’t very interesting either as it’s really only one main street, but I did happen upon the Heather Gems Factory and Showroom, which makes some very unique jewellery out of the heather that blankets the landscapes of the Scottish highlands.  After some time in town, those of us who stayed behind drove up to Blair Castle to meet the others.  Here, I was greeted by some regal peacocks that were strutting amusingly about the grounds.  One even enjoyed posing for me long enough to snap some photographs of him before he bored of me and strutted on.

Sir Peacock

Back on the bus, we commenced our journey to our final destination in Aviemore.  The drive was spectacular.  Simply gorgeous.  Sheep were scattered everywhere, rolling green fields stretched as far as the eye could see, and barley waved in the wind.  It was such a magical scene.  From our large picture windows I stared out to admire the River Tay, the longest river in Scotland, that was flowing along large pines and through dense forests.  The further north we drove, the more rugged the landscape became, with rocky terrain and hills carpeted in wild heather, lingering snow frosting their peaks.  The area reminded me of driving up to cottage country in northern Ontario and the geography of the Canadian Shield, and so it felt a bit like home.  Finally arriving at our hotel in Aviemore, we got off the bus and I was at once smacked in the face (in a good way) with clean and crisp mountain air and the fresh smell of pine.  Even the sun had finally come out to join us.  I felt momentarily invigorated after our long journey, but very much welcomed a bit of a lay down and a good dinner.  After freshening up, my roommate and I headed down for a birthday drink where I was treated to a throat soothing single malt scotch whisky before enjoying dinner.  Soon after, I was ready for a long and restful sleep.

River Tay

Excellent Edinburgh

A restful sleep in the castle, I awoke eager for a hearty Scottish breakfast, and apparently, it seemed I awoke with quite the appetite. After loading up my plate with eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, bacon, sausages, and yes, even haggis (when in Rome, er, Scotland), I had a craving for something a little sweet, so I gobbled down a tiny chocolate croissant as well. I washed it all down with some juice and tea and rubbed my tummy with delight, amazed and a little impressed at the fact I was actually able to intake so much food at one sitting. It was hands down the best breakfast I had since I started my trip. The haggis alone was enough to earn my praises. It was a good thing I had loaded up on such a fine breakfast, as the day was to be spent exploring the excellent city of Edinburgh.

The Balmoral Hotel

We began our morning sightseeing with a bus tour around the city. As we entered Edinburgh over the North Bridge, we were greeted by the striking Victorian styled Balmoral Hotel, located in the heart of the city at the east end of Princes Street. We then passed Holyrood Palace, where I quickly, and rather unsuccessfully, tried to snap a few photos whilst driving by, and then on through to Holyrood Park, where we climbed the Salisbury Crags, a series of towering 150 foot cliffs, and disembarked for a moment to gaze out upon the city. It was a wonderfully scenic drive up a steep and rocky hill that culminated in a spectacular panoramic view of Edinburgh in all its splendour and far beyond to the North Sea. Morning joggers and dog-walkers were already out and about stretching their legs for an invigorating hike up the hills and I thought how amazing it would be to have this landscape as your backyard and romping ground.

View of Edinburgh from the Salisbury Crags

From the top of the crags I looked out over St. Margaret’s Loch where I could see St. Anthony’s Chapel in the distance. I admired the spires of churches and monuments rising above the buildings in the city, and could even make out Edinburgh Castle, sitting majestically upon Castle Rock.

Panoramic View of Edinburgh

Driving back into Edinburgh, we passed a most interesting and unique building, which I later learned was the Scottish Parliament Building. A modern and contemporary structure with massive windows, sheathed by oak lattices and “trigger panels” and a “Bamboo Garden”, the building is a stark contrast to the Gothic, Renaissance, Neoclassical, and Victorian architecture of other famous edifices and landmarks in the city.

Scottish Parliament Building

Another outstanding feature was the grand Governor’s House and Obelisk that sat upon Calton Hill, which also offers impressive panoramic views of the city.

Governor's House & Obelisk on Calton HIll

Ending our bus tour, we were dropped off on the South Bridge for some time to enjoy Edinburgh independently. Having spotted a small church that was holding a book fair during our city tour, I immediately made my way over there. Blissfully lost in old book heaven, I spent ages rifling through rows and rows of books for some treasures to take home. I could have spent the whole day there alone, as there were so many wonderful books for sale. Sadly, I knew my luggage would be well over the allowed weight limit if I purchased all the books I wanted, so I settled on a perfect Scottish souvenir, an old Ward & Lock guide book of Scotland from the 1950s, which came complete with maps and surveys, along with a 1910 (?) edition of Charles Dickens’, A Tale of Two Cities, illustrated by A. A. Dixon and complete with plastic wrapping and slip cover (looked like it hadn’t even been read yet!). Finally, tearing myself away from the books, I continued on to the main shopping district of the city to hunt for some woollen tartan scarves and was happy to find one in soft lambswool that matched my trench coat perfectly, and I needed it too as it was frightfully cold in Scotland, even in May. Breaking for lunch I popped into Jenners, Scotland’s oldest independently owned department store until it was bought out by House of Fraser in 2005. The remarkable Victorian building with its ornate stone facade and brass detailing is akin to the Harrods of London and is a cherished local landmark.

Jenners Department Store

After lunch and more browsing in the fine shops of Edinburgh, I visited the National Gallery of Scotland, and while not as impressive as the National Gallery in London, it was a wonderful place to sit and rest my feet and admire the stunning portraits and works of art.

National Gallery of Scotland

Tired and sore from walking all day, I returned to the bus pick up point back on the South Bridge for our return to the Melville Castle Hotel for the evening. I wish we’d had another day to explore Edinburgh as I very much enjoyed the city. It was surprisingly quiet for a major city, no hustle and bustle at all, and even when work let out and everyone began to hit the streets to make their way home, it was still not as crowded as I would have expected. I would certainly return there again to spend more time visiting the landmarks and attractions, as we really didn’t have enough time to see much. Another city to add to my “re-run” list for sure.

Scotland, Aye!

Hadrian’s Wall

An early start to the day, we made our first stop in Heddon on the Wall in the north of England to view the World Heritage site of Hadrian’s Wall, which I might add, was a bit anti-climactic for me. I had envisioned this great wall, an impenetrable Roman fortress, but after almost 2000 years, it’s surprising that any section of the wall remains at all. I was honestly more amused and entertained by the horses in the neighbouring farm that were nuzzling and biting at each other’s necks than the wall itself, but I could at least appreciate this ancient legacy that has survived the ages.

Welcome to Scotland!

After our stop at the wall, we continued on to Scotland (Aye!) where my obsession for all things tweed and tartan immediately rekindled. Along the way we passed lush fields painted in an endless array of emerald shades, dotted with countless fluffy sheep, and the occasional golden sheet of wild mustard blooms. Crossing the border was like something out of a picture book. A large stone marked with England on one side and Scotland on the other, welcomed us into the country. Standing before it was your typical Scotsman, all decked out in his kilt and clan colours, and of course, playing the bagpipes. It was quite magical. Dark clouds loomed overhead while the strong wind tossed me about (definitely not a good hair day for me), and excitement filled the air. It was everything I thought Scotland would be – rugged, raw, strong, and spirited. It’s no wonder its people have been described similarly, having been moulded and influenced by this spectacular terrain.

Scottish Countryside

Our next stop was the little town of Jedburgh, where we got out to stretch our legs. I strolled down to the river to admire the wildflowers and watch the ducks idling in the water and then walked over the bridge and up to the abbey to peer through the iron gates.

Jedburgh

Finally, having reached Edinburgh, we checked into our hotel, Melville Castle, an old Gothic castellated mansion on the outskirts of the city. I was looking forward to staying at the Airth Castle Hotel as previously outlined in the brochure, but there was a last minute switch, of which we were only notified that morning, and so we were moved to this sister property. Although not as grand as Airth Castle, Melville was still quite delightful. My room was large, the beds were super comfortable, and the view of the grounds and fountain from my bedroom window was much more inspiring than the hideous brewery the night before. So, after enjoying a tranquil evening stroll about the property and a picnic dinner in my room, I was eager to fall asleep in my comfy bed and look forward to my day in Edinburgh the next day.

Melville Castle